Namdaemun Market in the heart of Seoul is more than just a market; it's a gateway for tourists visiting Korea, leading into what was once Hanyang (old Seoul). As Sungnyemun Gate (Namdaemun) was the main gate of the Hanyang Fortress, this place has been a crucial thoroughfare both in the past and present. Sungnyemun Gate, which was destroyed by arson in 2008 and restored in 2013, now proudly stands as a cultural heritage representing Hanyang and a grand gate embracing the market.
On the afternoon of March 21st, I visited Namdaemun Market. Still vibrant amidst the commercial areas of Myeongdong, department stores, and shopping malls, Namdaemun Market is a historically deep-rooted traditional market that has existed since the early Joseon Dynasty. Among its many sections, the Hairtail (Galchi) Alley particularly caught my attention. While Intestine Alley (Gopchang Golmok) and Food Alley (Meokja Golmok) are familiar, naming an alley after a single fish like 'Hairtail' felt fresh.
Hairtails rise to the surface at night to feed, and fishing for them also occurs at night. As deep-sea fish, hairtails cannot withstand the pressure change when brought to the surface and die. The fish's sword-like shape is called 'Kalchi' in pure Korean, and 'Doeo (刀魚)' or 'Daedo (大刀)' in Chinese characters, all because the hairtail resembles a sword.
In the narrow alley, amidst old signboards and smoke-filled air, the smells of grilling fish, simmering soybean paste soup, and steaming rice mingled. This alleyway bears the traces of time in every corner. The older generation, remembering the past, revisits this alley for nostalgia, while the younger generation seeks the sentiment of these traces. This is the true charm of Namdaemun Market.
Visitors here choose the cramped restaurants in the alley over the neat restaurants on the first floor of modern buildings. Why? Because those alley restaurants hold stories and time. The hands that cook rice and grill hairtail within the layers of accumulated years symbolize not just a city's scenery but the food culture and emotions of Koreans.
Sitting in that alley, I ordered hairtail stew (Galchi Jorim) and ate rice. When you place a well-seasoned piece of hairtail on top of the fluffy rice, two bowls of rice disappear in no time. The nickname 'rice thief' (Bapdoduk) for this dish is not unwarranted. The rice thief of the alley is innocent; rather, it becomes a reason to visit this market.
Before exploring the tourist attractions of Hanyang Fortress, having a meal in this alley becomes more than just eating; it becomes a cultural experience. This alley is still alive, and its smells, sounds, and tastes are remembered through all five senses.
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