Gyeongju, South Korea — For over 40 years, one small restaurant in Gyeongju has served as a testament to a mother's unwavering love and dedication, one dish at a time. Hang-a Restaurant, run by 72-year-old Kim Bae-ja and her son, Siwan, is a culinary institution known for its spicy chicken bulgogi and deeply satisfying daegu-tang (codfish stew). But beyond the menu, the restaurant tells a powerful story of perseverance, a mother's hand-crafted legacy that raised a family of four.
A Legacy Built on Instinct, Not Recipes
Perched atop an underpass on the road from Geoncheon-eup to Sannae-myeon, Hang-a Restaurant has been a fixture in the community for three decades. For locals, it's a name synonymous with authentic home cooking. Kim Bae-ja, a Seoul native who settled in Gyeongju by chance, started her first eatery over 40 years ago in Geoncheon-eup, Jojeon-ri. Back then, there was no signboard, just a few tables and her unmatched cooking. "Where would I have a sign?" she recalls with a smile. "I just prepared food and a few tables. That was 40 years ago."
The name "Hang-a" wasn't even her idea. It was born from her loyal customers, who affectionately began calling the place "Hang-a's," after her second daughter's name.
What makes Kim's cooking so special is its complete reliance on instinct. There are no measuring cups or spoons in her kitchen. Everything is made "by feel," yet the flavors are always consistent. "I raised my four children selling chicken bulgogi," she says, a statement that speaks to both her determination and her culinary prowess. Her son, Siwan, now works alongside his wife to help his mother run the restaurant, ensuring the family legacy continues.
The True Taste of Spicy Chicken Bulgogi
Hang-a Restaurant’s signature dish, the spicy chicken bulgogi, is a revelation. It’s a dish that tastes exactly like a home-cooked meal, because it is. Kim uses no artificial seasonings, relying instead on a simple blend of soy sauce, red pepper powder, and her own special natural seasoning made from shiitake mushrooms and anchovy powder.
She stir-fries chicken with an assortment of vegetables and kimchi she makes herself, infusing the dish with a complex, fiery flavor. While the dish might not look overwhelmingly spicy, a single bite will set your taste buds ablaze, a genuine kick that can "melt away all your stress," as one regular customer put it.
A Soothing Counterpoint: Daegu-tang
To cool down from the fiery chicken bulgogi, customers often turn to the daegu-tang. This clear, refreshing codfish stew is the perfect palate cleanser. Kim, who used to make dishes like pig's feet and tripe hot pot, now focuses on a smaller menu to maintain quality. Her commitment to using only the freshest ingredients ensures the daegu-tang is consistently clean, light, and deeply satisfying.
In addition to the main courses, Hang-a Restaurant is celebrated for its ever-changing selection of side dishes. Each one is a reflection of a mother’s care. There’s the braised mackerel, a dish her son remembers from his childhood breakfasts; homemade kimchi; and even a simple fried egg offered to customers who have had a bit too much to drink.
A Life's Work, A Mother's Sacrifice
Kim Bae-ja's journey was far from easy. After the early death of her husband, she found herself a young widow with four children to raise. "I carried my babies on my back while I cooked and cleared tables," she recounts. "I did it to survive. There was no time to think about how hard it was."
Despite her age and the physical toll of a lifetime spent in the kitchen, she has no plans to stop. "My body isn't what it used to be, but I'll keep going for as long as I can," she says. Her spirit is an inspiration to her family and to the community she has fed for decades.
Hang-a Restaurant is more than a place to eat; it is a monument to a life of hard work and a mother’s love. For anyone craving the warmth and comfort of a home-cooked meal, a visit to this unassuming eatery in Geoncheon is a journey back in time, a chance to taste the kind of food that can only be made with a lifetime of experience and an enduring maternal touch.
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