The late Cardinal Kim Sou-hwan often likened the essence of life to a simple boiled egg – seemingly complex, yet fundamentally round and unpretentious. Like the egg, a symbol of rebirth and infinite possibilities, our lives, though appearing robust, can sometimes be fragile.
Before the advent of the KTX high-speed rail in 2004, train journeys possessed a distinct romance. The gentle strumming of guitars and heartfelt singing filled the carriages. Passengers savored squid and peanuts with beer from the Hongikhoe cart, and before they knew it, their destination would arrive. Now a fading memory, this leisurely pace of train travel has been revived by the "Chungnam Retro Romantic Train." Aboard a Mugunghwa train, this special journey along the Janghang Line offers a unique trip through time.
A Blend of Nostalgia and Romance Aboard the 'Chungnam Retro Romantic Train'
At the early hour of 7 AM, the Mugunghwa train, steeped in 103 years of history on the Janghang Line, departed from Seoul Station. As it left the city behind, a guitarist serenaded passengers with Cho Yong-pil's "Let's Go on a Trip" and Kim Soo-cheol's "Young Generation," instantly igniting a warm atmosphere within the train.
Staff dressed in old-fashioned school uniforms, reminiscent of the former Hongikhoe cart attendants, distributed local Chungcheongnam-do snacks like boiled eggs, banana-flavored milk, and Gongju chestnuts. Retro lucky draw games added a touch of playful nostalgia. An "Alps Girl Heidi" impersonator, complete with an accordion, filled the train with yodeling melodies, transporting passengers to a Swiss alpine village in an instant.
In the blink of an eye, the train arrived at its first stop: Yesan Station. As the saying goes, the excitement of travel is half the journey. Passengers aboard the "Chungnam Retro Romantic Train" began their individual explorations, having chosen from seven renowned destinations in Chungcheongnam-do: Boryeong, Asan, Seosan, Seocheon, Yesan, Taean, and Hongseong.
The Breath of a Millennium-Old Temple and the Serenity of Yesang Lake in Yesan
The Yesan leg of the journey often begins at Sudeoksa Temple, a historic site boasting 1500 years of history. As one of the seven major monastic complexes of Korean Buddhism and the head temple of the Jogye Order's 7th district, Sudeoksa oversees approximately 50 branch temples in the Chungcheongnam-do region. Notably, the main hall of Sudeoksa (National Treasure No. 49) is the oldest wooden structure in Korea with a precisely known construction date. Its elegant entasis columns, bracket system, and gable roof beautifully showcase the architectural splendor of Goryeo Dynasty wooden buildings. This temple has also been a vital center of Buddhist practice, where influential modern Buddhist figures like Master Gyeongheo, Master Mangong, and Master Hyeam disseminated enlightenment and maintained a strong tradition of Zen Buddhism.
However, for the general public, Sudeoksa is perhaps more familiar through singer Song Chang-sik's hit song, "A Nun of Sudeoksa." It is also renowned for its deep connections with progressive women and artists of modern Korean society, including the Buddhist nun and writer Ilyeop, painter Na Hye-seok, and artist Goam Yi Eung-no. Consequently, Sudeok Yeogwan (Sudeok Inn) is as frequently visited as the main hall.
Located beside the Iljumun gate, Sudeok Yeogwan is where Na Hye-seok, Korea's first female Western-style painter, once resided. Surrounding the inn, one can find unique abstract calligraphic rock carvings created by Yi Eung-no after his imprisonment related to the Dongbaekrim incident, adding an artistic ambiance. The "Seon (Zen) Art Museum" next to Sudeok Yeogwan displays Yi Eung-no's paintings of Sudeoksa's scenery, inspired by his time at the inn.
Recently emerging as a new landmark in Yesan-gun, Yesang Lake is the largest reservoir in Korea. The 402-meter-long Yesang Lake Suspension Bridge, opened in 2019, and its stunning musical fountain continuously draw visitors. The towering 64-meter-high main pillar and the cables stretching out on either side create a majestic scene, resembling a giant white stork spreading its wings.
Around Yesang Lake, sculptures resembling stork eggs catch the eye, reflecting Yesan's symbolic association with storks. Blessed with the Sapgyocheon and Muhancheon streams and extensive fertile wetlands, Yesan provides an optimal habitat for these birds. The nearby Yesan Hwangsae (Oriental White Stork) Park plays a crucial role in protecting and returning storks to nature, featuring a cultural center, ecological wetlands, and breeding facilities.
A visit to Yesan is incomplete without savoring the taste of Yesan apples. Apple cultivation in Yesan began during the Japanese colonial period in 1923, and remarkably, some 100-year-old Yesan loess apple trees still thrive today. In Godeok-myeon, the Eunseong Farm houses a winery that produces a special apple wine named "Chusa," after Kim Jeong-hee (1786-1856), a renowned Joseon Dynasty scholar and calligrapher from Yesan. Jeong Je-min, who studied winemaking in Canada, crafts cider from these century-old Yesan loess apples and distills it to produce a high-quality brandy (Calvados) aged in French oak barrels. A winery tour offers a glimpse of an oak barrel signed by renowned food cartoonist Huh Young-man and a chance to sample homemade apple pie and apple wine. From September to November, various events like apple picking, concerts, and apple festivals provide abundant entertainment for visitors. This European-style winery culture has become a new attraction in Yesan, drawing over 30,000 visitors annually.
The Poignant History of Haemi Eupseong Fortress and the Daffodil Dreams of Yougibang House
In front of Haemi Eupseong Fortress in Seosan, a shop sells "Pope Bread" with a special story. This bread was chosen as a snack for Pope Francis when he visited the Haemi Eupseong holy site in 2014, marking the first papal visit to an Asian country. Lovingly named "Kiss Ring," this round bread is made with Seosan's specialty, six-clove garlic. During his visit to Haemi Eupseong and Solmoe Holy Ground in Dangjin, the Pope delivered a message of peace, leaving a profound mark on the history of Korean Catholicism.
The Pope's visit to Haemi Eupseong was significant due to its deep connection to the Catholic persecutions. During the brutal persecutions from 1866 to 1872, over 1,000 Catholics from the Chungcheong region were brought to Haemi Eupseong, where they endured severe torture and martyrdom. After tasting the Pope Bread, a short five-minute walk leads to Haemi Eupseong Fortress.
The main gate of Haemi Eupseong is the majestic Jinnam Gate (鎭南門). A historical site where Admiral Yi Sun-shin also served for ten months, its nameplate embodies the determination to protect the people from southern Japanese invaders. Passing through Jinnam Gate, a 300-year-old Sophora japonica tree stands tall to the right. Known in the Chungcheong dialect as "Hoyanamu," it is said that Catholic believers were hung by their hair from its eastern branches, tortured, and met their tragic deaths. In front of the tree, the restored prison and torture devices vividly recount this painful history. The Haemi Eupseong prison was also where Kim Jin-hu (Pius), the great-grandfather of Korea's first priest, Andrew Kim Dae-geon, was martyred. The renowned scholar Jeong Yak-yong (Dasan) also suffered hardships here, exiled to Haemi Eupseong in 1801 during the Shinyu Persecution under the false accusation of being a Catholic. Believers who refused to renounce their faith faced brutal floggings and martyrdom at the "Jari-gae Rock" outside the west gate of Haemi Eupseong. Due to this sorrowful history, persecuted Catholics referred to the west gate as the "Gate to Heaven," as it was where the bodies of martyrs were carried out. In recognition of these unnamed martyrs, the Holy See officially declared the Haemi Martyrdom Holy Site an international pilgrimage site in 2021.
The next destination is Yougibang House in Unsan-myeon, Seosan, where the beautiful spring scenery of the region can be fully appreciated. Yougibang is the name of the elderly resident who has long lived in and meticulously maintained this traditional Korean house, designated as a Chungcheongnam-do Folk Cultural Heritage. Mr. Yougibang began planting beautiful daffodils in place of the dense bamboo forest behind his house and has now cultivated over 20,000 pyeong (approximately 16.5 acres) of daffodil fields by hand. While daffodils typically thrive near water, here they bloom with a unique charm under the shade of the dense pine forest on the hill behind the house. The spectacle of green leaves and yellow petals stretching endlessly like a sea under the soft sunlight filtering through the pine trees creates an exotic yet peaceful atmosphere. Even the esteemed scholar Kim Jeong-hee deeply admired the daffodils blooming under the stone walls during his exile in Jeju Island, lamenting in his poetry that the islanders did not recognize their true value, a sentiment mirroring his own lonely plight.
Chungcheongnam-do Showcases Diverse Charms in the 'Year of Chungnam Visit'
In celebration of the "Year of Chungnam Visit," the special "Retro Romantic Train to Chungnam" will operate a total of eight times until November. In the first half of the year, four more opportunities remain: May 17th, May 30th, and June 14th. Lee Ki-jin, head of the Tourism Business Division at the Chungnam Culture & Tourism Foundation, stated, "The Chungnam Retro Romantic Train, which perfectly recreates the nostalgia of train travel in the 1960s and 80s, is gaining immense popularity not only among the middle-aged but also among the MZ generation seeking new experiences."
A Culinary Journey: The Elegant Flavors of Yesan's Gayasu Ragan
Located on the path to Sudeoksa Temple in Deoksan-myeon, Yesan, Gayasu Ragan is a special restaurant where one can savor both refined royal court cuisine and fresh, seasonal wild vegetable dishes prepared with care. Using various ingredients such as deodeok (bonnet bellflower), gomchwi (ligularia fischeri), and shiitake mushrooms, directly cultivated in the fields beneath a 100-year-old pine forest, the restaurant meticulously prepares its dishes. Having been taught delicate royal dishes like "Dubuseon" (tofu wrapped in vegetables) and "Wolgwachae" (gourd and vegetable salad) by the Royal Cuisine Culture Foundation (Chairman Han Bok-ryeo), along with generous country-style dishes like refreshing radish kimchi with pear and chewy shiitake mushroom and shrimp stew, Gayasu Ragan has been recognized for its exceptional taste and quality, receiving the highest rating of five stars from "Mideoyu," a leading local food assessment institution in Chungcheongnam-do.
This journey through time aboard the "Chungnam Retro Romantic Train" is more than just a trip down memory lane; it offers a special opportunity to experience the beautiful nature, rich history, and diverse culture of Chungcheongnam-do. Embark on a romantic train adventure and create unforgettable memories while enjoying the serene temples and picturesque lake scenery of Yesan, the poignant history and beautiful daffodil gardens of Seosan, and the delicious local cuisine.
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