Sejong, the City Resembling Seoul: A Royal Dining Journey Along the Geum River

HONG MOON HWA Senior Reporter

hgeranti@hanmail.net | 2026-11-07 05:08:38


[SEJONG] In Sejong, a planned administrative city topographically reminiscent of central Seoul, a new culinary exploration known as the "Sejong O-Sik (Five Meals)" tour is capturing attention. Alongside major landmarks like the National Arboretum and the Presidential Archives, the city is spotlighting future developments, including the planned sites for the Presidential Office and the National Assembly Sejong Building.

Recently, the government announced plans to establish the Presidential Office and the National Assembly Building in Sejong as part of a broader relocation of central administrative and public institutions. This has intensified interest in Sejong's future as an administrative hub. Blessed with abundant green spaces and cultural facilities, the city's true essence was explored through three key experiences: running, panoramic city views, and fine dining.

● Morning in Sejong: Running Along the Geum River

To truly experience Sejong, one should run along Baechukcheon, a stream flowing into the Geum River. At 7:00 AM, a morning jog along the waterfront near the Government Complex in Eojin-dong offers a refreshing start. Tall buildings flanking both sides cast cool shadows, accompanied by lush walking paths and the soothing sound of flowing water.

Reminiscent of Seoul’s Cheonggyecheon Stream, running along Baechukcheon immediately fills the crisp morning air with a vibrant energy. Sejong features many excellent green spaces for runners, such as Lake Park, the Geumgang Pedestrian Bridge (Ieung Bridge), and the National Sejong Arboretum. However, running along Baechukcheon uniquely highlights Sejong's identity as an administrative capital.

Flanking the stream are the Ministry of Government Legislation, the Anti-Corruption and Civil Rights Commission, and the Ministry of Personnel Management. Above them runs an aerial walkway connecting 15 government buildings, featuring the world’s largest rooftop garden. Looking up from below feels like stepping into a sci-fi futuristic city. As the morning commute approaches, public officials rushing along the corridors with briefcases in hand demonstrate that Sejong is a living, breathing metropolis.

Baechukcheon meets Jecheon Stream before flowing into Sejong Lake Park and the Geum River—much like how Cheonggyecheon meets Jungnangcheon Stream before joining the Han River at Ttukseom. Jogging from Baechukcheon past Jecheon to Lake Park offers a deeper appreciation of the city's layout.

● Panoramic Views and the Future Presidential and Parliamentary Sites

Sejong is a meticulously planned city. From "Cafe Pleasure," located on the 49th floor of a high-rise residential-commercial building next to the Sejong Arts Center in Naseong-dong, floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides reveal a panoramic view of mountain ranges, open fields, architecture, and apartment complexes, resembling a 3D architectural blueprint of Sejong.

The most striking feature is the vast green expanse in the heart of the city—Sejong Lake Park (approximately 690,000 square meters), which boasts the country's largest artificial lake, and the Sejong Arboretum (approximately 650,000 square meters). To the right, the Geum River flows with the circular Ieung Bridge symbolizing the creation of the Korean alphabet (Hangul) floating gracefully upon it. To the left stands a forest of apartments and skyscrapers.

Amidst this landscape lies a vacant, earthen plot nestled between Won-susan Mountain (251m above sea level) and Jeonwol-san Mountain—land reserved for the Presidential Office and the National Assembly Sejong Building. While central government ministries previously relocated to Sejong, the president and parliament remained in Seoul. However, Prime Minister Han Duck-soo locked in a relocation roadmap: "Presidential office move-in by September 2029, groundbreaking for the Sejong Assembly building in 2029, and completion targeted for 2033."

The proposed site for the Presidential Office rests against the backdrop of Won-susan Mountain, historically the command post during the Battle of Yeon-gi against the Mongol invasions in the late Goryeo dynasty. A mountain once commanded by military generals is now poised to serve as the seat of the head of state. Flanked by Jeonwol-san Mountain to the east (the Blue Dragon) and the Brother Peaks/Osan foothills to the west (the White Tiger), with the Geum River flowing gently in front, the site forms a classic Baesan-imsu (mountain in the back, water in the front) geography.

Park Young-guk, president of the Sejong City Culture and Tourism Foundation, described the city's structure by comparing the Lake Park area to Hannam-dong and the banks across the Geum River to Apgujeong-dong in Seoul, making the urban layout instantly understandable.

The proposed "National Symbol Zone" for the National Assembly and Presidential Office is already seeing groundwork initiated by the Korea Land and Housing Corporation (LH). However, these buildings will only serve as the crowning touch of Sejong if the President and lawmakers permanently relocate and work on-site, completing Sejong as a fully functioning capital.

Sejong is also exceptionally pedestrian-friendly. Located between Lake Park and the National Sejong Library, the Presidential Archives offer a fascinating glimpse into modern Korean history following liberation. The first-floor lobby displays a Cadillac used as a presidential limousine, presidential calligraphy, and gifts from foreign diplomats, alongside faithful replicas of the Blue House reception room, office, and Chunchugwan press briefing room, where visitors can sit in the presidential seat for commemorative photos.

At the National Sejong Arboretum, the "Henri Matisse and the Five-Color Garden" exhibition is currently being held in the Mediterranean Greenhouse of the Four Seasons Greenhouse. Visitors can walk into Matisse's vivid paintings, where bold reds, blues, and yellows blend seamlessly among lush green Mediterranean plants.

● Sejong’s "O-Sik" (Five Meals): Dining Like a King

Despite being a well-organized planned city, Sejong has traditionally faced a shortage of nightlife culture, often causing business travelers and tourists to head to neighboring Cheongju or Daejeon's Yuseong district in the evening.

To revitalize the local commercial sector, Sejong City and the Sejong Culture and Tourism Foundation introduced the "Sejong O-Sik (Five Meals)" tourism initiative. Historical records note that kings of the Joseon Dynasty—including King Sejong—traditionally ate five meals a day: Chojoban (early morning rice gruel to warm the stomach), morning Suratgan (breakfast), midday Nat-geot-sang (light midday meal), evening Suratgan (dinner), and late-night Yamcham (night snack). Sejong City has turned this luxurious royal dining culture into an official tourism product.

While King Sejong did not have direct historical ties to the land, name equity is a powerful asset in modern tourism. The "Sejong O-Sik" concept elevates everyday local cuisine to a royal dining experience. Since last year, the city has selected "Sejong Loved Restaurants" and operated gourmet travel programs. The 1-night, 2-day O-Sik itinerary runs in sequence: Midday meal -> Tea ceremony table (local cafe) -> Evening Surat (dinner) -> Juansahan (artisan brewery) -> Banquet table (Sejong Traditional Market).

Following the Sejong O-Sik course allows visitors to thoroughly explore new town restaurants, cafes, and the traditional market in Jochiwon. The journey begins at "Sanjang Garden," a local hotspot in Yeonseo-myeon, serving Seokgalbi (marinated pork ribs grilled on a hot stone plate). For the tea course, visitors enjoy coffee and desserts at Cafe Pleasure.

The highlights of the tour are the Evening Surat and Juansang. Located in Eojin-dong, the Italian restaurant "Pastas by Find Fine" offers a fascinating pairing of Western cuisine with traditional Korean liquor. A standout menu item is the Prosciutto Pizza topped with Jochiwon peaches—a staple of the region for over a century—where the subtle sweetness of warm peaches blends harmoniously with the savory saltiness of prosciutto.

Accompanying the meal is "Baekgyeong," a Cheongju (clarified rice wine) from the local Baekgyeong Distillery. Unlike many traditional Korean liquors that tend to be overly sweet and mask food flavors, Baekgyeong offers rich fruit aromas reminiscent of white wine while maintaining a dry finish that pairs exceptionally well with food. This is followed by a 53-proof soju, which delivers a surprisingly smooth throat feel, gradually warming the stomach as it goes down.

The final banquet table experience takes place at the Jochiwon Traditional Market in the older district of Jochiwon. Rather than being served a pre-prepared meal, participants use a 30,000-won Onnuri gift certificate per two-person team to gather ingredients across the market for a potluck party.

Gathering at the cafe "Hwayangyeonhwa" in front of the market, bags were unsealed to reveal a feast of local delicacies: padak (green onion fried chicken), dumplings, mung bean pancakes, whole fried chicken, blood sausage (sundae), head meat, tteokgalbi, fried tofu, hotteok, and fried pumpkin. It was hailed as the most entertaining meal of the O-Sik journey because participants directly shopped, smelled, and selected the food themselves.

A quintessential main menu item is "Jochiwon Padak," invented by Kim Yeon-gyu, who worked as a chef at a construction site in Saudi Arabia during the Middle East construction boom in the 1970s. Finding greasy fried chicken heavy in the scorching desert climate, he added sliced green onions on top, creating an instant hit that cut through the oiliness. Upon returning to Korea in 1980, Kim opened the "Wangcheon Padak" shop in his hometown Jochiwon market, spreading its fame nationwide. The hallmark of Jochiwon padak is serving freshly fried chicken from a cauldron topped with raw green onion slices without any sweet sauce, allowing the pungent, crisp aroma of the green onion to balance the richness of the chicken.

After the meal, visitors can stroll through the older alleys of Jochiwon, distinct from the modern ambiance of Sejong's new city center. Along the way, encountering a local resident who regularly picks up cigarette butts in the alleyways while running a restaurant leaves a lasting impression. He shared that he began cleaning the streets after recalling his late mother's final advice before passing away: "Try living a life that becomes a flower."

He later published a book of poetry containing his mother's words:

"My mother asked if we, her brothers and sisters, were becoming flowers / She asked if we always were / Exactly one month before she passed away, she instructed us / First, she told me to become a flower to myself / And to certainly become a flower to others / Then, she said, it would truly be spring for yourself." — From Park Pan-kwon’s poem, “Flowers and Certainty”

[ⓒ Global Economic Times. 무단전재-재배포 금지]

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