Argentine Coffee Culture: A Deep Dive with Nicolás Artusi

KO YONG-CHUL Reporter

korocamia@naver.com | 2025-03-19 20:00:18

Buenos Aires, Argentina – Nicolás Artusi, a prominent Argentine journalist and coffee sommelier, recently provided an in-depth analysis of the cultural, economic, and historical impact of coffee in Argentina and globally.

Artusi shed light on why Argentina's coffee consumption is relatively low, how coffee became a symbol of urban life, and the factors that influence coffee preparation and appreciation. He also discussed coffee's association with colonialism, commercial disputes, and its status as the world's second most traded commodity.

Argentine Coffee Consumption:

According to Artusi, Argentina's coffee consumption is significantly lower than in other nations. "Argentina's per capita annual coffee consumption is 1kg, which has remained relatively stable since the early 1970s. In contrast, Nordic countries like Norway and Finland consume 15kg per capita annually. Additionally, mate, the most consumed beverage in Argentina, has an annual consumption of 6kg," he explained.

Cultural Symbolism of Coffee:

While coffee is a part of the urban landscape, its consumption remains lower than in other regions. Artusi noted, "It is rare to see people drinking mate when choosing a public place for business meetings or problem-solving. Attempts to open mate bars in the 2000s and 2010s were unsuccessful. After the pandemic, drinking mate in the street became fashionable due to Lionel Messi's influence, which is a characteristic cultural trait of Uruguay."

Coffee is more than just a beverage; it is a cultural symbol. "Unlike mate, coffee is surrounded by the history of human thought, the development of ideas, and rituals associated with urban life. Coffee is a synthesis of many elements. On one hand, it is a beverage, and on the other, it is a meeting place. Coffee is both a drink and a place where it is consumed," Artusi explained.

Coffee Preparation and Appreciation:

Artusi explained that the temperature of coffee preparation also affects the sensory experience. "Coffee should be prepared with water below 96°C, not boiled, and the optimal serving temperature is 68°C. The temperature should drop by the time it is placed on the table. This temperature feels low to most Argentines, who prefer to drink it above 80°C. It is also common to consume torrado coffee, which is made by artificially adding sugar during the roasting process."

Argentina does not produce coffee and relies on imports, which influences local customs. "The coffee roasting process involves heating the beans to 200°C to create the roasted beans that are sold. Torrado coffee, consumed in Argentina, Spain, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Portugal, involves the artificial addition of refined white sugar, up to 10% in Argentina. When exposed to high temperatures, sugar caramelizes, creating an oily, dark film that alters the characteristics of coffee, such as its aroma and flavor," he added.

Economic and Political Impact of Coffee:

Artusi noted that coffee has historically had a powerful political and economic impact. "Throughout history, wars have been fought over coffee. Coffee is strongly associated with colonialism. In Brazil, slaves were brought to work on plantations, and Brazil was the last country in the Americas to abolish slavery due to coffee's economic importance."

He also mentioned the political situation in Brazil. "Until the late 19th century, Brazil was ruled by white elites who owned coffee plantations, known as the 'coffee and milk politics.' In the 1960s, some former African colonies maintained coffee production as a key economic resource to reduce their dependence on Europe. Napoleon left the saying, 'Cursed coffee, cursed colony,' after losing Martinique."

"Coffee is the world's second most traded commodity after oil and is associated with political and social history. Eighty countries produce coffee, and many countries rely on coffee as a source of income," the journalist added.

Nicolás Artusi's analysis reveals that coffee is a complex entity that deeply involves culture, economy, and politics, beyond being a simple beverage. Argentina's unique coffee culture and consumption habits are influenced by historical and economic factors, and the advice of coffee experts offers ways to enjoy coffee more richly.

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