Hwangnam Milmyeon: A Gyeongju Eatery Preserving a Dish Born of Resilience

KO YONG-CHUL Reporter

korocamia@naver.com | 2025-08-13 12:08:06

 

Gyeongju—A cold noodle dish known as milmyeon, a culinary creation born from the hardship and ingenuity of displaced people during the Korean War, has found a thriving home on the bustling streets of Gyeongju. Originally conceived in Busan as a more accessible alternative to traditional naengmyeon using readily available flour, milmyeon has since evolved into a beloved delicacy across Korea. Among the many establishments serving this dish, Hwangnam Milmyeon has cemented its reputation as a must-visit restaurant in the trendy Hwangnidan-gil district. Its popularity has led to the opening of a second location in the Bomun Tourist Complex, a strategic move catering to the city's robust tourism sector.

The restaurant's menu focuses on two main variations of the noodle dish. The mul-milmyeon, or water milmyeon, is celebrated for its clean, refreshingly cool broth, a perfect antidote to warm weather. For those who prefer a bolder flavor profile, the bibim-milmyeon offers a spicy yet well-balanced sauce that provides a satisfying kick without being overly aggressive. Both dishes are characterized by a commitment to preserving the authentic, unpretentious flavors of the original milmyeon.

A key to Hwangnam Milmyeon's success lies in its pairing of cold noodles with hot, smoky meat. The Yeontan Bulgogi, or charcoal-grilled pork, is a popular complementary dish. Made with premium black pork sourced from Jeju Island and grilled over charcoal briquettes, the savory, caramelized pork provides a rich contrast to the cool and clean taste of the noodles, creating a highly satisfying culinary experience.

Hwangnam Milmyeon, with its roots in a historical dish and its presence in a modern, rejuvenated neighborhood, serves as a testament to the enduring appeal of milmyeon. It not only offers a taste of the past but also an experience that resonates with contemporary diners, solidifying its place as a cornerstone of Gyeongju's dynamic food scene.

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