Baja California, Mexico – Gray whales, following their annual migration of over 10,000 miles north, pass the coast of Washington. Meanwhile, the Makah Tribe's potential resumption of whaling poses another threat to their survival. Amidst this, many whale watchers from Whidbey Island embark on a special journey each winter to San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California, Mexico, where gray whales mate and give birth.

San Ignacio Lagoon, with its warm, shallow waters, serves as a nursery for mother whales to raise their calves and is known for the remarkable friendliness of the whales towards tourists. In particular, mother whales stay here for several months, sometimes engaging in extraordinary interactions with people. To witness this unique interaction firsthand, a reporter accompanied this special journey this year.

A small chartered plane departing from Tijuana landed us at a desert oasis-like airport after a three-hour flight. Divided into two vans, we headed towards a camp near the lagoon along a bumpy road. Amidst the vast and arid landscape, Don Glavic, who accompanied us, asked the guide, a question on everyone's mind: "I've heard that the whale numbers aren't what they used to be. Can you reassure us all?"

Glavic, a marine ecologist and kayak tour guide from Whidbey Island, mentioned that he had visited the lagoon the previous year and had an amazing experience getting close to numerous gray whales. "I don't remember the exact statistics, but everywhere you looked, you could see whale blows, breaches, spyhopping, and calves."

Concerns About Whale Well-being

However, the past few years have been challenging for gray whales, and the lagoon's scenery seemed to reflect this. MT Solomons, one of the three guides on our trip, said while driving along the rough road, "We still see various behaviors, but the overall population has decreased significantly." Solomons, a guide from Campo Cortez, confirmed the decline in the total number of gray whales visiting the lagoon and offered meditations to help visitors manage their expectations regarding whale encounters.

Although the recent large-scale die-off of gray whales has officially ended, the impact of the so-called 'Unusual Mortality Event' is still felt. Nearly half of the gray whale population disappeared over four years. It is unclear what this will mean for the whale population in the long term. While recovery is expected, Solomons explained, "It means fewer mothers and calves might migrate north, or the mothers might not be strong enough to sustain another pregnancy in the coming years."

To make matters worse, the La Niña phenomenon occurred this year. Due to La Niña's influence, water temperatures dropped, and it is believed that many whales skipped the lagoon and migrated further south in search of warmer waters. Consequently, while there are still many gray whales in San Ignacio Lagoon, the latest weekly count from an official survey just before our tour was only 76, less than half the usual number. Typically, over 200 whales are observed.

Campo Cortez – The Heart of San Ignacio Whale Watching

Every morning, these numbers were handwritten on a whiteboard inside a large, new palapa at the center of our camp. Campo Cortez is located on the edge of San Ignacio Lagoon, Mexico's largest wildlife refuge and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Everything here aims to respect the whales and their well-being. All water is transported in and out to maintain the lagoon's cleanliness. We slept in small plywood cabins, and the camp shares its space with several enormous osprey nests.

Outside the kitchen overlooking the lagoon, the reporter sat down with Maldo Fischer. He runs the camp, which his entire family operates, and he said he started taking tourists on whale watching tours over 35 years ago. Initially, he was afraid because his boat was only 18 feet long, less than half the length of a typical gray whale. "It was a very small boat. Gray whales are 35 feet long!" he exclaimed.

One whale he called 'La Loca' taught him how friendly these whales could be. The whale would approach from under the boat and seemed to embrace it, he said. Fischer founded and currently leads the San Ignacio Whale Watching Association, creating and enforcing voluntary rules. The number of boats and the time spent with whales are limited, allowed only in designated areas, and patrolled by sheriffs and park rangers. And Fischer mentioned that considering the current state of the whales, more restrictions might be put in place.

As we set out on our first whale watching tour, all eyes were focused on the water. Tourists, guides, and the driver scanned the surroundings for blows and other signs. Soon, a pair of bottlenose dolphins swam and leaped beside us, announcing the arrival of the first whale diving nearby. Finally, the captain turned off the engine and let the boat drift. We could approach the whales within yards, see the barnacles on their skin, and almost feel the spray from their massive exhalations just before they dove.

By the end of the day, we had seen many whales. Several seemed curious, raising their heads straight out of the water to look at us. Some of us sang and splashed water to entice the whales closer. However, we did not experience touching a whale or close interaction with mothers and calves.

A Meditation on Giving Space

That evening at the camp, our guide Solomons held a meditation session with singing bowls, helping us adjust our expectations about touching the whales. "Return to the center of your mind. Bring your thoughts to your heart. Connect with your heart," she said. With fewer whales around, she encouraged us to stop longing for encounters and instead focus on giving and receiving, bringing that energy to the boat.

Then she asked if anyone wanted to share their intentions. I involuntarily opened my mouth. I resonated with the invitation to give the whales more space. In fact, I had been feeling concerned about whether touching the whales was really what we should be doing. "So I think it's okay not to touch the whales," I said. "It's okay if we don't have a whale-touching encounter." And the next day, we didn't touch any whales again.

The third day was our last chance. I woke up early and walked to the water's edge. Sitting outside the palapa, I turned on my recorder and dictated my thoughts into the microphone, writing an audio diary. "It seems like this place is at a kind of turning point in terms of its reputation and marketing around very close whale encounters," I said. After talking with Fischer, the camp operator, I wondered if they could still encourage people to expect to touch whales, even put their hands in their mouths or kiss them. In the past, all of this had been done in a very joyful and friendly way that the whales didn't seem to dislike. Now, Fischer had said they were considering taking a break, but everything was still uncertain.

The Close Encounter Finally Arrives

Later that morning, we took the boat out into the lagoon, where numerous birds – pelicans, cormorants, gulls, and terns – flew over the calm water. In less than 15 minutes, we encountered a very friendly pair of whales. Our guide, Natalia Figueroa, encouraged us to sing and splash water to get their attention. It worked. She splashed the water vigorously, urging, "Really do it!"

It's hard to fully describe the interaction that followed. The whales swam as close to our boat as possible, rubbing against it and diving underneath. The calf, with its mouth open, clearly wanted to interact with us, as if hoping to be touched. Excitement, awe, and cheers filled and overflowed the boat.

This interaction continued for over 30 minutes. "I touched a whale! I did it!" one passenger exclaimed loudly, as if achieving a long-held travel goal. I also carefully, hesitantly, touched the top of the calf's head once. Others repeatedly rubbed and splashed water on the two whales' skin. Some were moved to tears by the encounter. And I… couldn't stop smiling.

Reflection

That night, back at camp, I asked Don Glavic, the marine ecologist and my new friend from Whidbey Island, for her thoughts on all of this. The boat she was on didn't have the same close and intense encounter we experienced – certainly no touching. But she had a close look at a calf. "That little baby came right up, and we made eye contact. That was enough. Looking into a whale's eye will change your life forever. You'll carry that with you," she said.

I didn't make eye contact with a whale. But that day's whale watching was deeply moving – the incredible joy experienced on our boat will surely stay with me for a long time.

After returning from San Ignacio Lagoon, reports emerged that 70 gray whales have died in Baja California lagoons this year. Scientists are concerned but unsure of the cause. NOAA Fisheries has not yet reached a conclusion and stated that strandings along the U.S. Pacific coast remain low. The whales have just begun their northward migration.

Gray Whale Migration Route: Gray whales breed in the cold, food-rich waters of the Arctic and migrate to the warmer lagoons of Mexico in winter to breed and give birth. Their round-trip migration is about 20,000 kilometers, one of the longest migrations of any mammal.
Makah Tribe Whaling: The Makah Tribe is a Native American tribe residing in northwestern Washington State that has traditionally practiced whaling. In the late 1990s, they attempted to resume whaling within limited scope but faced opposition from environmental groups. Legal whaling has not occurred to date, but the Makah Tribe continues to assert their traditional right to whale.
Importance of San Ignacio Lagoon: San Ignacio Lagoon is one of the primary breeding grounds for gray whales and is an ecologically important area, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988. The shallow, warm lagoon provides a safe and abundant environment for mother whales and their calves.
Impact of the Whale Watching Industry: The whale watching industry in San Ignacio Lagoon plays a significant role in the local economy, but there are also concerns that it could stress the whales. Accordingly, the Mexican government and local associations have established and enforce regulations for sustainable whale watching.
Changes in Gray Whale Population: Gray whales were once on the brink of extinction due to whaling, but their population recovered thanks to conservation efforts. However, they are recently facing threats again, such as the 'Unusual Mortality Event,' raising concerns about their long-term survival. Climate change and marine environmental pollution are also cited as factors that could negatively affect gray whales.
This article, through the special encounter experienced in San Ignacio Lagoon, simultaneously shows the relationship between gray whales and humans and the hopes and concerns for their future. The intimate interaction provides a moving experience but also serves as an opportunity to reflect on the impact of human activities on wildlife.